GameScience Inking

I am a big fan of GameScience dice. Most gamers have seen the infamous videos Lou Zocchi made. If you haven’t go ahead and watch part one and part two of the videos. Even if not in agreement you will likely find them entertaining!

There has even been a “roll off” between GameScience dice and Chessex dice which does show a bit of an edge to the GameScience dice.

Regardless of statistical superiority – whether it be true or not – the dice stay on the table better for me due to their precision edges. These days I keep one dice bag full of of my Chessex and other miscellaneous dice and another with my GameScience. My GameScience bag is the one I grab most often.

Inking History

I tend to buy my GameScience dice un-inked. There are numerous articles out there on various inking methods and I have tried several of them. For my initial investment into GameScience dice I bought four sets. Two sets I did with crayon like I did when I was a kid. The other two sets I did with a sharpie marker as described at Jeff Rient’s blog.

I liked the crayon method and the two sets I did that way actually have lasted pretty well. There are some gouges from the wax from mixing with the other dice in the rolls. And some of the GameScience dice have circles around the numbers which I kept getting wax stuck in, giving them a slightly off appearance.

I then did two sets with a sharpie extra fine marker. These went pretty well. A little faster to do this way and they came out looking good. I thought this was going to be my preferred method for future sets. Over time though the marker method seemed to fade. The numbers had less ink in them and they became harder to read. In the past several months the inking job looked pretty bad.

The Inking Experiment

I could have simply redone them with a sharpie. I still have lots of Sharpie markers I could have done the job with. I was looking to experiment a bit. Jobe Bittman over on Google+ mentioned using Sharpie Poster Paint markers of the Extra Fine variety to ink the dice.

Most of the comments mentioned using the water-based ones. But after checking an office supply store, WalMart, and an Art Supply store in town I did not find a water-based version in black. I did found a two-pack of metallic, glitter paint ones, but I did not want to try those on the dice.

Today was the stop at the art supply store. After being directed to the paint marker aisle I saw lots and lots of markers! I still didn’t find a water-based paint marker though. Admittedly I was in a hurry as the family was waiting in the car. I decided to grab the extra fine point Sharpie oil based marker in black and headed to the cash register. The clerk mentioned another marker that could “erase” mis-applied paint. That sounded infinitely useful and I picked one of those up to.

Once getting settled in at home I tried my hand with the new Sharpie marker and seeing if I could fix up my GameScience dice.

As you can see the 20-siders show the most wear. The original marker is very faded. All faces used to look as solid and bright as the '6' on the ten-sider in the upper right corner.

As you can see the 20-siders show the most wear. The original marker is very faded. All faces used to look as solid and bright as the ‘6’ on the ten-sider in the upper right corner.

These are the markers I used. The Sharpie is on top, an oil based paint marker. The other is a Paint Marker Remover, chisel tipped. This was for the inevitable mistakes I would make along the way.

These are the markers I used. The Sharpie is on top, an oil based paint marker. The other is a Paint Marker Remover, chisel tipped. This was for the inevitable mistakes I would make along the way.

Ooops! Is that a smudge on the '4' and fingerprint in oil-based paint? Yep. This one needs cleaned up.

Ooops! Is that a smudge on the ‘4’ and fingerprint in oil-based paint? Yep. This one needs cleaned up.

I have run the remover marker over this side of the die. Still a touch of of the smudge visible, but looking better. This side needs re-inked as the remover seeped into the grooves of the '4' during clean-up.

I have run the remover marker over this side of the die. Still a touch of of the smudge visible, but looking better. This side needs re-inked as the remover seeped into the grooves of the ‘4’ during clean-up.

Re-inked now. Not 100% perfect, but much better than the fingerprint on the face. Barely noticeable during play.

Re-inked now. Not 100% perfect, but much better than the fingerprint on the face. Barely noticeable during play.

Here are the dice after I re-inked them all. Not 100% perfect when scrutinized, but looking pretty good for table play. When compared to the first photo in the series I think they turned out pretty good.

Here are the dice after I re-inked them all. Not 100% perfect when scrutinized, but looking pretty good for table play. When compared to the first photo in the series I think they turned out pretty good.

Results?

I still need to see if I can clean things up a little more, but overall I am pretty happy with how things turned out. They aren’t perfect, but in comparison to my other inking jobs they are in the same ballpark as far as smudging or imperfections of my workmanship. Time will tell how they hold up, being oil-based paint I suspect it lasts much, much longer before showing signs of wear.

DCC Funky Dice

One of the unusual facets of Dungeon Crawl Classics RPG is the use of “funky” dice. Now for the established RPG gamer, the concept of “funky” dice can be unusual. After all we already play with d20’s, d12’s, d8’s, d10’s and the beloved d4. We already play with funky dice, right?

Nope! Dungeon Crawl Classics RPG brings us some more unusual dice, including the d3, d5, d7, d14, d16, d24 and d30. This set of dice is also known as the Zocchi Dice. Some people find this an attraction to the game and others find it as a detriment. I fall into the former camp and enjoyed hunting down the new dice and rolling them during the game.

Dungeon Crawl Classics RPG uses an improved die and reduced die mechanic that moves you up and down a dice chain when rolling. For example, bumping up from a d20 with an improved die roll would be a d24 and a reduced roll from a d20 is a d16. There are also some other charts and mechanics that make use of the funky dice to determine certain results during the course of a game.

When Joseph Goodman was asked about the inclusion of these funky dice in DCC by Suvudo he replied that he simply liked funky dice. In the interview he goes on to say that part of the nostalgia surrounding old-school gaming is related to the unusual dice of the time. Back when the d20 and d4 were unusual to the old-school gamer. As time has come on those types of dice have become “normal”. DCC RPG attempts to bring some of the nostalgia back by using these funky dice that are even new to a lot of us long timer gamers.

While some dislike them, I think Goodman Games really succeeded with the use of “funky” dice in the game. I haven’t been that excited about dice for a long time. But with DCC RPG I enjoyed reading up on just what dice I needed and hunting them down on the Internet. I found the experience enjoyable and not all that difficult to do, despite what some folks seem to be saying.

For those that really want to try DCC RPG, but do not want to hunt down dice, the rulebook describe ways to emulate the “funky” dice with normal dice. We used this way of rolling for the first funnel adventure I played with my son. It worked well, certainly well enough to get a feel for the game.

Over on the Goodman Games forums for DCC RPG someone has shown a way to use only the d8, d10, and d12 in using this method:

  • d3 = d12 divided by four
  • d4 = d8 divided by two -or- d12 divided by three
  • d5 = d10 divided by two
  • d6 = d12 divided by two
  • d7 = d8 re-roll 8’s
  • d8 = standard
  • d10 = standard (I’m old and remember when it wasn’t)
  • d12 = standard
  • d14 = same as d7 but with a control die (high is +7)
  • d16 = d8 with an control die (high is +8)
  • d20 = d10 with a control die (high is +10)
  • d24 = d12 with a control die (high is +12)
  • d30 = d10 with a control die (middle is +10, high is +20)

While I prefer to roll the “funky” dice the above methods work as good substitutes as folks decide whether to purchase their own sets of “funky” dice.

In either case – do not let the “funky” dice or Zocchi dice keep you from trying out Dungeon Crawl Classics RPG. Even if you do not feel like purchasing new dice for the game (and come on, what gamer doesn’t like to buy dice!), there are ways to play the game with “normal” dice we RPG gamers all used to.